From news.npiec.on.ca!torn!howland.erols.net!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!decwrl!nntpfeed.doc.ic.ac.uk!sunsite.doc.ic.ac.uk!lyra.csx.cam.ac.uk!taurus.cus.cam.ac.uk!atms2 Fri Mar 14 13:47:10 1997 Path: news.npiec.on.ca!torn!howland.erols.net!newsxfer3.itd.umich.edu!su-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!news.pbi.net!decwrl!nntpfeed.doc.ic.ac.uk!sunsite.doc.ic.ac.uk!lyra.csx.cam.ac.uk!taurus.cus.cam.ac.uk!atms2 From: Antonia Swierzy Newsgroups: alt.pets.rodents Subject: Pet Rat Information Sheet (LONG) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 12:12:53 +0000 Organization: University of Cambridge, England Lines: 857 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: taurus.cus.cam.ac.uk Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: QUOTED-PRINTABLE Xref: news.npiec.on.ca alt.pets.rodents:268 ************************************************************************ The following material is (C) 1997 A. Swierzy and A. Horn It is intended for reference only and the authors who are not veterinary professionals intend it as common-sense advice for people who keep pet rats. All comments are welcome at atms2@cam.ac.uk ************************************************************************ Pet Rat Information Sheet The purpose of this leaflet is to help readers keep healthy, happy pet rats. Its main focus is upon animal welfare - what owners can do to give their rats happy lives, and thus make them better pets. Please bear in mind that good breeders and good pet shops put a lot of time and effort into breeding and socialising pet rats; they will only breed from good quality, healthy, friendly animals and will allow the mother to rest between litters. The babies will have been regularly handled from a young age - before their eyes have opened - and should be confident in human company by the time they are ready to leave home, not hiding away or urinating in fear when they are picked up. They will usually be over six weeks old, and certainly no younger than five weeks; the breeder or pet shop should be able to tell you their date of birth. They will have kept male and female rats separate from the age of five weeks, because females can become pregnant even at this age. Good breeders and good pet shops will certainly care about the welfare of their animals, and will want to make sure that you have suitable housing and know how to keep rats, before they will let you buy any from them. Rats as Pets Rats are clean, intelligent, affectionate animals that bond to their human companions in much the same way that dogs do, and with the right care should provide a comparable level of companionship. They are the same species as the wild brown rat, Rattus norvigicus, but have been selectively bred for looks and temperament for at least the last century and are now quite different in temperament from their ancestors. Rats become very attached to their owners, make playful, sensitive pets, and can be taught to come by name and learn a variety of tricks. Unlike many other rodents, however, rats are a fairly high maintenance pet. They need at least an hour's playtime outside their cage every day, and because they are much more intelligent than many other small animals, can suffer greatly if not given enough attention, free-range time, and environmental stimulation. While rats are extremely rewarding pets and will repay any attention and affection you give them a thousand fold, they may not be suitable for everyone; if you cannot guarantee to give your rats at least an hour of quality time every day, then perhaps a lower maintenance pet. would be more suitable. The more attention you give your new rats when you first get them home, the sooner they will get used to your voice and your smell and begin to make friends with you. Handle your rats as much as possible, whether they seem to like it or not at first -- they will soon learn to enjoy your company. Unless a rat is very nervous or unwell, you cannot give it too much attention or handling. One good way of getting your rats used to you is to let them ride around the house on your shoulder or inside your sweater. Rats should not be picked up by the tail -- they don't like it, and it can cause injury. It is best to lift your rats by placing one or both hands under the chest, behind the front legs -- but be careful not to squeeze! Once your rats are used to you they will very likely run out of their cage and up your arm. Many rats will come when called even if they are roaming free range. Like all small animals they dislike loud noises and rough handling, so it is very important that children learn to handle rats carefully under close supervision; a pet rat should never bite, but when scared by rough handling even the gentlest pet may try to defend itself. Rat Safety Like many animals, rats can be destructive if left unsupervised for long periods of time. You should make sure you know where your rats are while they roam free range, and rat-proof any room that they are let loose in. Rat-proofing requires a little common sense, but need not become a major DIY project. Many rats will scent-mark 'their' territory with tiny drops of urine and you may want to keep a 'rat-blanket' to throw over soft furnishings when the rats are out. Electrical cords that cannot be kept out of reach of small teeth should be covered with aquarium tubing which can be bought cheaply from most pet-shops; it is easiest to slit the tubing along its length and feed the flex into it. Rats will also chew books, clothes, pencils and other items; they are also adept at knocking things over. Breakables and valuable possessions should be put out of harm's reach while your rats are out and about. Make sure that windows and doors are closed, and that there are no possible escape routes. Rats can fit through tiny holes, so you should check for cracks along skirting boards, between floor-boards etc. It is strongly advised that you do not wear shoes while your rats roam free-range. Some house plants can be poisonous for animals, so it is probably most sensible to keep all plants away from your rats. Does and Bucks It is very easy to tell the difference between male and female rats. Males have large prominent testicles which are visible under the tail from well before the age when they are ready to leave their mother. They can draw their testicles up inside them if they are afraid, but will not do this for a long period of time. A good rat breeder or staff at a good pet shop will find it easy to tell which sex baby rats are. Both male and female rats make great companion animals, although they have different characteristics. Does (females) are smaller, more lithe and more active than Bucks (males). Does have a smoother coat (unless they are rexes, in which case they have a less curly coat); they have almost no discernible smell and rarely scent-mark territory. Approximately once every five days a doe will be in heat for around twelve hours. This usually happens in the evening. You will notice that your doe is in heat by changes in her behaviour: she will be jumpy, skittish, and may perform a mating 'dance' by freezing, arching her back and fluttering her ears if you tickle her haunches. Bucks are larger and more laid-back than does. Their coat is coarser and has a slight musky smell to it. While they are as affectionate as does, they are much lazier, and when left free-range will often curl up in a corner or on your lap. Some bucks scent mark almost everything that they run into -- including their human companions -- but this is not as disgusting as it sounds as the 'scent' is only a few drops of urine and does not smell strongly.=20 Very rarely, a male may become overly aggressive towards his cage mate(s) or hard to handle when he reaches 4-5 months of age (and sometimes later) if his levels of male hormones are too high. This is not a usual occurrence and should not be confused with the normal rough and tumble of adolescent rats. A rat suffering from an excess of male hormones will display "fight or flight" behaviour almost constantly: he will puff up his fur, hiss and huff at other rats and people, and may attack or bite cage-mates or his owners. This condition can usually be cured by having the rat neutered, and his hormonal levels and behaviour will soon return to normal. If you must have a buck neutered, make sure that you use a vet who has done this operation on rats before: rats have an internal muscular structure unlike that of dogs and cats, and a slightly different procedure must be used (the inguinal canal must be stitched closed). Neutering normally costs about =A330 (at time of writing -- 1996). The National Fancy Rat Society has a list of vets that have experience in dealing with rats. Growth and Lifespan Rats are born after 21-23 days gestation. Rats have poor eyesight but their senses of hearing and smell are many times more sensitive than ours. Baby rats' eyes open when they are between 13-16 days old, although they can hear and smell a few days after birth. Rats normally leave their litter at 6 weeks of age; they are weaned from their mother at 4-5 weeks, but benefit greatly from staying with their litter and being socialised until 6 weeks, since the period from 2-6 weeks of age is a crucial stage in the rat's mental and social development. It is important that rats are allowed to stay with their litter until this age, and the National Fancy Rat Society does not allow baby rats to be sold before they are six weeks old. Rats normally become fertile around 5 weeks of age, but does have been known to get pregnant as young as 3 1/2 weeks! (This is only an issue if young does are introduced to older males: young does are not at risk of being impregnated by their litter-brothers until after 5 weeks of age). Rats grow rapidly until they reach 12-14 weeks. After this, the growth slows down but many rats continue to fill out until they reach six months of age. Adult bucks usually weigh 400-600g, does around 200-400g. As long as a rat has been handled as a youngster, it will bond to you no matter how old it is when you first get it. Rats usually live for between two and three years; a big cage, other rats for company, a healthy diet, and lots of exercise is the best way of making sure that your rats have a long life. Social Life: Rats Need Company Rats are highly intelligent, social animals, and although they enjoy the companionship of humans, they thrive in -- and need -- the company of their own species. Rats should never live alone and ideally should be kept in groups of two or more of the same sex. It is unfair and cruel to deprive any social animal of the company of its own species. Rats enjoy grooming each other, curling up to sleep together, and sometimes even fighting. It is usual for rats to fight occasionally, especially when they are 'teenagers' between 3 and 6 months old; do not worry about this unless you see serious injuries, as the rats are just establishing a pecking order. =20 No matter how much time you can spend with your rat, you will never be able to replace the attentions of his own species. Do not forget that a rat's most active time is in the middle if the night, when most rat owners are unlikely to be able to provide their pet with companionship. One fear expressed by potential rat-owners is that if they get more than one rat, the animals will bond together and be less tame as a result. The opposite is usually the case, as solitary rats can easily become clingy, introverted and neurotic. Rats kept in pairs or groups are happier, more confident, and no more difficult to tame. There is, in fact, no valid argument for keeping rats alone, but many good reasons to let them live in single-sex pairs or groups: two rats are as easy to look after as one, a cage that is big enough for one rat is big enough for a pair, two rats are much happier and live longer than single rats -- and they're many times more interesting to watch!! It is easiest to introduce rats to their companions when they are young (preferably under 10 weeks old). When introducing adult rats, first clean out the cage thoroughly to remove territorial scents from the resident rat. Dab both rats with perfume or vanilla essence (to disguise their smells) and introduce them on neutral territory, not in a cage which one recognises as its own. There will usually be some fighting for the first few days after they are introduced. This is not usually serious, but to avoid it you may prefer to introduce them gradually, letting them first just sniff each other and then work up to putting them in the same cage over about a week. It is harder to introduce adult male rats to other adult males, and such introductions need to be done over several weeks. However, it is usually fairly easy to introduce an adult male to a very young baby male. While it is possible to sex baby rats from birth with a little practice, it is impossible to confuse does and bucks from four weeks onwards, as by this age the male's testicles have dropped and are clearly apparent. While baby rats are weaned before five weeks of age, they should not leave their litter until they are at least six weeks old. Any pet shop or breeder who claims that their baby rats cannot be definitely sexed yet is selling them far too young, does not have the animals' best interests at heart, and should be avoided at all costs. Housing Unlike rabbits and guinea pigs, domesticated rats are not hardy in cold weather and as such must live indoors. For this reason they need a cage rather than just a hutch. Your rats will spend most of their lives in a cage, and because they are such intelligent, active animals, it is a shame to keep them in a small space. There is no such thing as a cage that is 'too big' for pet rats -- giving your animals more space is an easy way to make their lives more interesting. As a bare minimum, the floor-space should be at least 24" long and 12" wide, but I would stress that this is the minimum acceptable cage size and most pet owners want to give their pets more than the minimum. It is really important to check the dimensions of any cage before you buy; it can be hard to guess accurately, and a few inches of space can make a lot of difference to animals as small as rats. Wire cages are by far the best housing for rats. In addition to providing good ventilation they are a ready-made rat climbing-frame, and can be easily converted into a rat adventure playground with a little imaginative use of ropes, ladders, tree branches, shelves, hammocks, and flowerpots attached to the sides. In addition to a minimum of two square feet of floor-space, you should try to get a nice tall cage for your rats: they love to climb and you can maximise the available space by making shelves. The simplest shelves are melamine boards which can be slid between the bars of the cage; they are convenient to remove and can be wiped down. Fer-Plast and other companies make excellent, reasonably priced 'parrot' cages (such as the Fer-Plast Sonia 24" long x 15" wide x 25" high or the Immac Gabbie Dora ) that are suitable for rats -- although it is worth shopping around as prices can vary by as much as 100%; animal exhibitions are a great place to get large cages at wholesale prices. Used ads papers (such as LOOT in London) and classified ads are also good places to find cheap cages; make sure that you disinfect and rinse any second-hand cage thoroughly to kill any bacteria that may be living in it. A Hamster cage, no matter how 'large' is not suitable for adult rats: even the three-story 'hamster-palaces' do not have enough floor space or climbing opportunities. Some wire cages made especially for ferrets, chinchillas, or laboratory use, have wire floors with a pan below to catch droppings. Do not be tempted by the ease with which these can be cleaned, nor by their elimination of the need for a 'litter' for the floor: wire cages can, and often do, cause a painful and incurable condition called bumblefoot in rats. Bumblefoot, a severe irritation and swelling of the hocks, makes it painful and difficult for rats to walk, and cannot be cured. If you do buy a cage with a wire floor, remove the wire floor and set the cage in the litter tray. Wire shelves can (and should) be easily covered with off-cuts of linoleum. In addition to climbing opportunities and good ventilation, a cage allows you to interact with your rats -- you can feed and stroke them through the bars. Rats have keen senses of hearing and of smell; a cage provides extra stimulation as your rats can pick up new smells and sounds which they find interesting. An aquarium can be a sound second option if, for some reason, a cage is not suitable or available. Aquariums offer less climbing opportunities, but this can be overcome with a little imagination and the use of some of the items listed above. However, aquariums can have poor ventilation, so it is important to make sure that the lid allows plenty of air to circulate (a fan close to the tank is recommended), and that the tank is kept scrupulously clean: Ammonia build-up from urine can irritate rats' respiratory tracts. Aquariums do have the advantage of keeping the rats bedding, food etc. in their home and away from your furniture and carpets, and they provide a measure of security for rats who live in cat-owning households (although make sure that the lid is cat-proof!!). A halfway house between an aquarium and a wire cage is the Fer-Plast Duna, a large (approx. 2.5' x 19" x 23") plastic tank with a sliding wire top. While the Duna offers limited climbing opportunities and has unsatisfactory ventilation, it is extremely easy to clean (it can be taken apart). Fer-Plast do a whole series of cages similar to the Duna, some of which have raised wire portions on top which could provide some climbing opportunities and improved air circulation. While the Duna is super as a nursery for baby rats as it is secure and drought-proof, it should only be used for adults when there are no other feasible options (the Savic Rody is a similar cage). In addition to a cage, your rats will need a nest box. This is a place to hide or sleep in which allows the rats to feel secure. A nest box can be improvised from a small empty cardboard box, a large clean empty jar, or a small bucket with a hole cut in the side. Rat Toys Baby rats enjoy playing with toys and each other, whilst adult rats tend to use toys for sleeping in or on and reserve their play for humans or other rats. All sorts of objects can be useful for both purposes - some ideas are lengths of plastic drainpipe, large drainpipe connectors, lengths of wide drainage pipe, large glass jars, cardboard boxes, and old clothes. Small toys intended for hamsters or gerbils are good for baby rats. Some rats will run on wheels, but usually they are not interested in them -- probably because they are too intelligent. Wheels with spokes are very dangerous for rats -- legs, tails, or even heads can be damaged in them as one tries to jump on while another is running. Toys intended for ferrets are generally safe and suitable for rats, if you can find them.=20 Litter and Bedding Wood shavings are the most commonly available litter sold to line the bottom of small animals cages. Unfortunately wood shavings are not an ideal litter for rats as they give off essential oils and can be very dusty. As both aromatic oils and dust can irritate rats' respiratory tracts, shavings are especially unsuitable for rats prone to respiratory infections. The worst culprit is red cedar shavings which are only now being introduced to the UK as a deodorising bedding. Scientific research suggests that the aromatic oils in cedar bedding can cause serious health problems such as damage to the liver and consequently, to the immune system of animals kept on it. While pine and spruce shavings do not carry the same degree of risk, there is at least anecdotal evidence that their long-term use causes similar health problems, and for this reason they are probably best avoided. Health problems such as those discussed above can only be diagnosed in a post-mortem examination. While it is unlikely that you will notice any dramatic change in the health of your pet as a result of changing cage litters, it is wisest to use a litter that presents few or no potential health problems to your pets. By avoiding shavings altogether, it is possible that your rats could live longer and suffer fewer illnesses. =20 Unfortunately there are not many alternatives to wood shavings in the UK at the moment, but there are two products that are worth keeping an eye out for: Bio-Catolet (tm) -- pellets of recycled paper. Sterile and dust-free, this litter is many times more absorbent than wood-shavings, and is much better at controlling odour. Although on a Kg to Kg. basis it is more expensive than wood shavings, Bio-Catolet is far more efficient: you use much less and change it less often than wood (for example, once rather than twice weekly for an average-sized cage containing two females). Because of its efficiency Bio-Catolet is good value for money. It can be found in large branches of ASDA, Sainsburys, and Tescos nationwide, or telephone the distributor Jenks at (01492) 442446 to find your nearest stockist. CareFRESH (tm)-- currently being imported from the US, and made of recycled non-aromatic wood pulp. Dust-free and sanitised, it has good green credentials but is less absorbent and odour-eating than Bio-Catolet. Some (human) users have complained that they don't like the smell, others rave about how mess-free it is. Phone Absorption Europe at 0171-272-7720. In a pinch, shredded paper-towels can be a safe stop-gap until you buy more litter. Normal cat litter -- even the dust-free kind -- is not appropriate for rats: the dust and clay can be hazardous to their health. Because the ink in newsprint can be toxic and paper quickly becomes very smelly, newspaper is not a suitable bedding. Straw is not recommended as a bedding as it can harbour mites, does little to absorb liquid or eliminate odour, and has been known to puncture rats' eyes. Food Like people, rats are omnivores and fare best on fresh wholesome foods: brown rice, vegetables, grains (wheat, barley, oats, millet), whole meal bread, etc. and some animal protein. High protein puppy food is useful as a supplement to help build up young rats (up to 10-12 weeks), and normal to low protein dry dog food is a good component of a healthy diet. Ideally, an adult rat should be fed some whole-grains, some vegetables, and some protein (lean meat scraps, dog food or meal worms) every day. This can be supplemented with a bowl of 'rodent mix' as a snack food. Debbie Ducommon of the Rat Fan Club has devised an excellent recipe for rat health food that appears to boost immune reaction and general health, see the Rat Fan Club (below) for details.=20 While such home-made nutritionally complete diets are ideal and are strongly recommended, it is also possible to give your rat a well-balanced diet using pet-shop mixes as a base. Reggie Rat made by Supreme Pet Foods is specially formulated with the nutritional needs of rats in mind. In theory it is a complete food, but your rats will always appreciate healthy fresh snacks as treats. As it is quite high in fat and protein, Reggie Rat is not recommended for rats that put on weight easily. A less rich option is a good quality rabbit food like Burgess Super Rabbit supplemented with fresh vegetables, some animal protein (mealworms, lean meat or dog biscuit), and the odd cooked meat bone (chicken bones are fine -- the rats just crunch them up) or natural yoghurt to provide extra calcium. The following foods can be used as treats / supplements to the regular diet: fruit (apples, cherries, grapes, banana etc.), vegetables (broccoli, potatoes, peas, carrot etc.), cooked liver, kidney, or other low-fat meat, cooked bones, cooked pulses (cooked Soya protein may reduce the risk of cancer), live yoghurt, sunflower seeds (an exceptional source of B vitamins!), wholemeal pasta and bread, brown rice, unsweetened breakfast cereals, and the occasional capsule of cod-liver or garlic oil. Table scraps will be eaten with relish, but try to avoid feeding fatty or sugary scraps. Carbonated drinks should never be given to rats as they cannot burp, and the build-up of gasses in the stomach from fizzy drinks could be fatal. Bear in mind that dietary fat has been linked to tumours in rats, and keep fatty foods like peanuts and sunflower seeds as treats. =20 There is conflicting evidence about whether maize (sweetcorn) is suitable for rat's diets: some laboratory studies claim that maize causes increased levels of certain enzymes in rats (and humans!) that may encourage the formation of cancerous tumours. Other scientific studies have been unable to prove any relationship between maize and cancer. As such, this is a decision probably best left to each individual owner. A good way of letting your rats enjoy sweetcorn without gorging themselves on it is to give them the remains of a cooked corncob from which you have already removed the kernels.=20 Fresh water should be available at all times, preferably in a gravity (ball-valve) bottle which will keep the water clean. Water should be changed daily, and the bottle should be scrubbed out once a week. If using a plastic bottle, it is a good idea to replace it every few months, to prevent excessive bacteria build-up. Vitamin supplements should be added to food rather than to drinking water -- vitamins make the water taste horrible, and may discourage your rats from drinking. In any case, rats fed a healthy, well-balanced diet should not need to have vitamin supplements. Grooming Rats are extremely clean creatures, and spend almost a third of their waking life grooming. As such, it is rarely necessary to bathe rats, with the exception of light-coated varieties which may need the occasional 'stain-removal' session if you wish to show them. If you decide that your rat needs bathing, make sure that you use a shampoo formulated for animals -- a kitten or puppy shampoo is best -- as human shampoo can irritate their skin.=20 Some rats do not clean their tails thoroughly and can develop dark stains or patches on their tails. If you wish to clean your rat's tail you should do so with an old, soft toothbrush and either a gentle soap / animal shampoo, or bicarbonate of soda. Wet the tail and apply the soap/shampoo / soda. Very gently stroke the rat's tail with the dampened toothbrush, always brushing away from the body towards the tip of the tail. Do not brush your rat's tail roughly as this can damage or even remove the delicate skin on the tail, and can be very painful for your pet. Some rat owners like to have their pets' nails trimmed regularly. This can be quite difficult and for the first time I would advise you to visit a vet or experienced rat owner -- a show can be a great opportunity for this -- and have them show you how to do it. Styptic powder (anti-bleeding) is a useful thing to keep on hand if you intend to cut your rats' nails as accidentally nicking the vein inside the nail can cause serious blood loss. Putting a large (cleaned) stone in your rats cage for them to climb on can also wear down their nails. Changing the bedding (tissues, kitchen towel, etc.) in your rats' cage daily will prevent them from becoming too smelly. It is also a good idea to give your rats a bowl of water every now and again so that they can wash themselves.=20 Health Problems The full range of health problems that your rat may encounter during its lifetime clearly can not be addressed in a leaflet of this length, and what follows should by no means be considered a substitute for veterinary care. A good veterinarian who is experienced in dealing with rats is invaluable, and it is a good idea to find one before a potential problem arises. Please see notes at the end of this document for the addresses of vets that I have used and personally recommend. The National Fancy Rat Society (see details below) also keeps a register of recommended vets all over the country. Veterinary care for rats need not be expensive -- I have been charged between =A36-8 per visit at various clinics, and often two rat= s can be included in the cost of one consultation.=20 Any surgical operation carries a risk that the animal will not survive the anaesthetic, but modern inhalant anaesthetics are far safer than the older-style injectables. In particular try to find a vet who uses Isoflurane anaesthetic -- it is very safe for small mammals, complications are extremely rare, and they recover quickly from it. After an operation, rats often try to remove their stitches and you can stop this by applying Johnson's Anti-Peck (sold to stop caged birds pecking themselves or others) or Bitter Bite (a repellent product similar to bitter apple, but more effective and marketed for dogs and cats) over and around the wound. If one of your rats appears to be unwell, a vet should be consulted as soon as possible: although rats are hardy little creatures, they can go into decline very quickly, and by putting off seeing a vet you may be greatly minimising their chances of survival. A few common symptoms of rat-ailments are: Red Discharge Around the Eyes and/or Nose: Not an ailment in itself, but a symptom of distress. Rats' mucus is stained red with a pigment called porphyrin (indeed, the mucus is commonly referred to as porphyrin). This discharge may be present if your rat is ill or simply stressed (as, for example, from moving house). Observe the animal carefully, and if it appears unwell or if the discharge continues for more than a few days, consult a vet. General Signs of Illness: the animal is hunched up, lethargic, coat staring (fluffed up and messy), uninterested in food or attention. Eyes may be half closed and breathing may appear laboured. If your rat shows these symptoms or others that worry you, consult a vet. Head-weaving is often seen in rats with pink or red eyes. The rat will usually stand still and weave its head from side to side for a while. This is perfectly normal; all rats are short-sighted (although they can sense movement from some distance, they can only focus for a few feet), but any animal with pink or red eyes has worse eyesight than those with dark eyes. Moving the head from side to side helps the rat to judge distances and the depth of objects by making them appear to move. This should not be considered a fault or problem - rats sense smells, sounds and movement (by feeling vibrations on the floor) much more than humans, and can cope perfectly well with limited eyesight. Note that there is a different, unrelated condition called head tilt or wry-neck, where the rat holds its head on one side permanently. This is caused by a inner-ear infection and needs veterinary treatment. Sneezing/Wheezing/Noisy Breathing: Often the sign of a respiratory infection. Virtually all pet rats are infected with an organism called mycoplasma bacillus which is a primary infection that inhabits their respiratory system. Many rats can carry mycoplasma without appearing to suffer any illness, while others are not able to carry the infection unharmed. These rats will usually start to sneeze as young adults; they then develop some damage to the respiratory tract (lungs, windpipe, etc.) which makes it easier for bacteria to enter and cause an infection. This is usually what has happened when a rat starts to wheeze, and if a great deal of damage is caused to the respiratory tract, the rat may develop emphysema, bronchitis, pneumonia and lung abscesses. Although sneezing is not necessarily a sign of serious illness (most rats sneeze at some point in their lives), a rat that sneezes frequently and for an extended period should be observed for any other signs of illness. If your rat's breathing appears laboured, wheezy, or has a rattley sound, consult a vet immediately. When treated early secondary respiratory infections can often be kept at bay with a strong course of antibiotics (see antibiotic therapy below). =20 While sneezing or snuffling may be the result of the irritation of the respiratory tract from dust and phenol oils if the rat is kept on shavings, it is most likely that a rat that shows signs of respiratory distress is suffering from a secondary infection in the upper respiratory tract. Bacterial infections in the upper respiratory tract often sound far more serious that they are, and if the affected animal is treated with liquid echinacea in honey-flavoured water (to disguise the taste of the echinacea tincture), the infection may be cleared without the use of antibiotics. A pro-biotic supplement (such as Entrodex from Vydex Animal Health -- see below) can give an immense boost to the immune system, and can occasionally even clear infections. Unlike echinacea, pro-biotic supplements can be given for extended periods of time without any negative consequences and without the rat developing a tolerance to the product. Live yoghurt (containing beneficial bacterial cultures) are also a useful supplement; however the cultures that they contain are largely destroyed by intestinal juices before they are able to have any noticeable effect. For this reason, specialised pro-biotic products like Entrodex which specifically target the intestine and are able to withstand gastric acidity for long enough to colonise the gut and multiply, are more effective, and as such, more highly recommended. Tumours: Some rats develop tumours as they get older. Female rats are more likely to develop tumours than males, and rats fed on a high-fat diet are also more at risk. The most common form are benign mammary tumours, which start off as a small, pea-like lump usually in the rats' groin or armpit, or along her side, and grow steadily. They do not usually cause any distress until they either seriously impede the rat's movement or start to ulcerate and become sore, or outgrow their blood supply. If your rat develops a tumour then you can decide either to have it surgically removed or to have her put to sleep when she becomes unhappy. You do not need to put her to sleep as soon as a tumour appears - she may have many months of happy life ahead of her before it starts to hurt, and as the rat's owner you will be the best person to decide when she is no longer enjoying life. If you decide to have the tumour removed and it is benign, the operation is relatively simple and need not be stressful for the rat if she is otherwise healthy. Tumour removal usually costs around =A330 (1996 prices) and, again, it is helpful to find a vet with experience in this area. However, bear in mind that a rat who is prone to tumours may well develop others after a first tumour is removed. This does not mean that it is not worth having the operation done - the rat could well gain at least an extra 3 or 4 months of life, which is comparable to 6-8 years for a human - but you need to take into account her overall health and your vet's opinion as to whether the tumour can be operated on. Skin Irritation: Usually paired with excessive scratching. Although it is possible that your rat has contracted mites, it is far more likely that it is scratching scabs caused by a dietary problem such as an intolerance to certain types of protein, or an adverse reaction to artificial additives in processed pet food. Before treating for mites (unless they are clearly visible), remove the majority of protein sources from your rat's diet (peanuts, sunflower seeds, and dog food that is too high in protein are common culprits), clip the back toenails, and treat the existing skin abrasions or scabs with an antiseptic ointment. Certain brands of dog food, and the brightly coloured biscuit often found in rodent mix are the usual causes of adverse reactions to artificial additives. Not all rats will react the same way to the same foods, and a useful way to eliminate this problem is to change all of your rats' diet to a home-made fresh diet, that contains no chemical additives. After 10 days of an altered diet (either very low protein or preservative free), all signs of irritation and scratching should have disappeared; if they remain, contact your vet to consider other options. Antibiotic Therapy:=20 While antibiotics can be a useful tool to fight bacterial infection in rats, they should never be used without the instruction of a veterinarian. Microbiologists and veterinarians who specialise in rat care have noted more frequent and severe outbreaks of bacterial infections among pet rats in recent years. Over-use of antibiotics in animal medicine is thought to have contributed greatly to the cases of antibiotic-resistant bacteria now in evidence. Every time an antibiotic is used there is a risk that it will encourage the emergence of antibiotic-resistant bacteria, which threatens humans and animals worldwide. Another disadvantage of using antibiotics is that there is evidence suggesting that, in the long run, they harm the health of the patient. This is partly because antibiotics destroy bacteria that live in the animal's gut, and which help make some vitamins and minerals which the body needs. It is therefore a good idea to feed some sort of pro-biotic supplement during and after a course of antibiotics. If you do decide to use antibiotics they should be given only when prescribed by a vet who has examined the animal. A rat which shows a tendency to succumb to infection should never be bred from, as the tendency towards respiratory illness appears to be partly hereditary, and it is likely that offspring and resulting generations will have weakened immune systems. It is important to obtain rats from breeders who have been selecting for healthy animals; a persistent sneezer, or a rat which wheezes, should not be bred from. If antibiotics must be used, it is important that the entire course is used up, otherwise the malignant organism being treated is likely to return in a stronger, antibiotic-resistant form. Experts vary in their opinion of the best way to administer antibiotics; some believe that they should be given for at least a week after all symptoms disappear. Others, worried about the damage that antibiotics can do to the natural bacterial balance in a rat's body suggest a cycle of ten days on the medicine followed by a rest period of five days off to be repeated two or three times, with the rat fed live yoghurt and / or pro-biotic supplements during the five days 'off' to replenish gut flora and minimise damage to the immune system. In some cases of respiratory disease, your vet may advise two courses of different antibiotics -- one following the other -- to combat the primary and secondary infections respectively.=20 A pro-biotic supplement can also be used to boost a rat's immunity when it is run-down, unwell, or stressed (as from traveling), and may help prevent serious illnesses. Rats can be given a pro-biotic supplement throughout their lives without it doing them any harm. Entrodex manufactured by the Vydex Animal Corporation Health (01222) 578220 also contains vitamins and electrolytes: it can be added to the drinking water one or two days a week for healthy animals, or every day for ailing or elderly rats. Echinacea is a herb that appears to boost immune response in many species including humans and rats. A few drops of echinacea tincture (available at most health shops, but cheapest at Neal's Yard Remedies in London - can be ordered by post) can be added to the drinking water of sick rats; a few drops of honey can be added too disguise the taste. As the body quickly develops a tolerance for echinacea, it is not recommended that you use it for more than three weeks at a time. Alternatively, you can give it to the sick animal for one week out of four. Obesity: Fat Rats. One of the best ways that you can insure that your rats lead long healthy lives is to make sure that they do not get fat. Fat rats live shorter lives, are prone to tumours, are more susceptible to infection, and less likely to recover from surgery. Does should be sleek and lean, and bucks muscular; neither should feel soft and squashy nor should they feel bony. Like people, rats often enjoy foods that are bad for them, and like children, rats will usually choose fatty or sweet foods over healthy ones. It is up to you to make sure that your rats eat healthily, and you may find it better to save treats for hand-feeding after your rats have eaten their healthy food. A healthy balanced diet, regular exercise (at least an hour outside the cage every day), and large, clean living conditions will insure that your rats' lives are lived to the fullest. In hot weather it is important to protect rats from heat exhaustion and dehydration. rats regulate their temperature mainly through the tail and foot-pads, so if you provide a bowl of cold water a hot rat can cool herself down by paddling in it. A fan placed near to the cage will provide a cooling breeze. You can also give your rats frozen vegetables (e.g. peas) as ice-lollies, and ice cubes can be added to their water-dish. Make sure that the cage is not in direct sunlight in hot weather. Breeding Rats should be kept in single-sex groups; if you keep un-neutered males and females together, they will produce a litter of 8-18 babies every 3-4 weeks for at least a year, leaving the mother exhausted and the babies undernourished. Baby rats become fertile after 5 weeks of age, so males and females must be kept separate after this time. Where a mating is planned, it is easier to reintroduce the male to his male cage-mates if he is only allowed to stay with the female for a short time - he can be left with her for an evening when she is in heat, or perhaps overnight. A pregnant doe can be left with her (female) cagemates until a day or so before she is due to give birth. It is not recommended that you leave a male and female together after mating. Although male rats make good fathers, a buck that has lived with a female for any length of time is almost impossible to reintroduce to his male companions. Furthermore, does go into heat -- the post partum estrus -- within hours of giving birth. If you leave the male rat in with the mother she will undoubtedly get pregnant immediately after giving birth and her health and that of her offspring will be greatly compromised as she tries to suckle one liter while another grows in her belly.=20 Before breeding from your rats, please consider carefully whether you will be able to find suitable homes for a large litter. Pet shops will not always be able to take unwanted babies off your hands, and if you are at all concerned for the welfare of your baby rats then you should only offer them to a pet shop if it has an excellent reputation and the staff are knowledgeable. Be warned that many pet shops sell rats as feeders for snakes - but the best will only sell them as pets.=20 If you do decide to breed, we strongly recommend reading the chapters on breeding and rearing rats in Nick Mays' The Proper Care of Fancy Rats, and if possible contacting the breeder of your own rats for advice. It is a basic requirement that both parents are friendly and healthy -- there are large hereditary aspects to the temperament and functioning of the immune system, so rats which are aggressive or sickly are likely to produce babies which share these characteristics. The female should be at least 4 months old so that she has had time to mature. If a female has not bred a litter by the age of 8 months then there is a risk that she will have difficulty giving birth, but if she has produced a litter before this age then she may be bred from until she is around a year old, providing that she is healthy and in good condition. The mother must be left with her kittens until they are fully weaned at 4-5 weeks, but they will not be ready to go to new homes until about a week after weaning (in order for the breeder to make sure that the babies are well handled, healthy, and of good temperament). To preserve the health and condition of the mother she must be allowed a rest of at least a couple of weeks after weaning one litter of kittens before she is mated to produce another. Books About Rats Although there are several books about rats in print at the moment, none provides a satisfactory all-round guide to keeping rats as pets, and several are desperately inaccurate. The best of those currently available is The Proper Care Of Fancy Rats by Nick Mays (TFH, ISBN 0-86622-933-X) which has descriptions of the various types of rat within the British rat fancy, and scores of colour photographs. The 'Health' section should be given a miss, however, as it is somewhat outdated. Rats - a complete pet owner's manual by Carol Himsel, published by Barron's, is better on health but poor on husbandry / pet care.=20 The National Fancy Rat Society Handbook is worth owning -- it contains some basic information about health, colour and coat types, genetics etc. A new edition is currently in preparation. In the meanwhile, copies of the old edition can be obtained from the NFRS (=A33.50 NFRS members, =A34.50 others). The Rat Health Care booklet written by Debbie Ducommon of the US-based "Rat Fan Club" (see below) is a useful guide for rat-owners. The booklet discusses many aspects of rat care ranging from diet and housing to medication and grooming. Although by no means the last word on rat health care, the Rat Health Care booklet is an invaluable resource and is highly recommended. Be aware however, that this is an American publication and many things that it takes for granted are considered highly undesirable in the UK: for example, 'freak' strains of rats promoted in the USA such as hairless, tailless, and "Dumbo" that often suffer from severe health problems; the prophylactic use of antibiotics; and the spaying of female rats which (in the authors' view) is a high-risk invasive operation with more risks than benefits to the animal. Cultural differences aside, this booklet contains immense amounts of valuable information that cannot (yet) be found in other publications. The NFRS has imported some copies, which can be bought for around =A34 Stlg., or you can contact Debbie Ducommon at the address below. Other Places to Find Information about Rats: There is a wealth of rat-related information on the internet. The best way to find WWW pages containing ratty information is to use a search-engine (like 'Yahoo' or 'Infoseek') and type in the word "rat" or "rats". The Rat and Mouse Club of America's home page (http://www.rmca.org) has links to dozens of other rat pages, so might be a good place to begin a search. The Rats Mailing List is an e-mail discussion group that provides a forum for the members of the list to discuss all manner of thing pertaining to rat care and ownership. Although some serious matters about health and husbandry are discussed, the majority of the 30-50 daily postings that you will receive from the list if you subscribe, will be anecdotal stories about 'cute' or amusing things that members of the list's pet rats have done. The Rats List is great for those who enjoy chatting about the joys of rat ownership. To subscribe send an e-mail (with the subject line blank) to rats-requests@lists.best.com with the message body containing the word "info" on one line and "end" on the next. You will then be sent a message containing information on how to subscribe and list protocol.=20 rec.pets and alt.pets.rodents on usenet are two newsgroups that have a lot of rat-related postings. A caution regarding internet/e-mail/usenet rat-related sources: Although many interesting and informative discussions take place on the internet, bear in mind that you shouldn't believe everything you read, and that although some of the posters may have a lot of knowledge and experience, many of the 'experts' are pet owners with limited experience. While you may learn a lot from such resources, it is best not to rely on information gained from newsgroups, mailing lists or other internet sources unless you are certain that the author is knowledgeable and trustworthy. If in doubt, contact your vet, the National Fancy Rat Society, or an experienced rat-owner/breeder with your query. =20 Rat Clubs It is hard to find accurate information about rat care and health because rats have only become popular pets in recent years. Joining a club or society is the best way to find out how to care for your rats, and to keep up to date with the latest developments in rat husbandry. Clubs can also help you get the most out of your pet rats by giving advice on socialising them and so on. The following are highly recommended: =20 The National Fancy Rat Society (NFRS) can be a great help to both the pet owner and those who are interested in showing or breeding rats. It runs regular shows throughout the country, has a bi-monthly journal (Pro-Rat-A) which gives down-to-earth, reliable advice on pet care, and experts in the Society are available to help with any queries that you might have. For membership details send an SAE to the Membership Co-ordinator (address below). The NFRS also runs a kitten register (for finding or selling rat-kittens) and has a register of recommended rat-friendly vets. The Rat Fan Club is an American organisation dedicated to the care of pet rats. It has several members in the UK (you can pay by credit-card) . Every monthly Rat Report newsletter features games to play with your rats, toys to make for them, and tricks to teach them. Attitudes towards other aspects of animal care can differ significantly from those in the UK, but the Rat Report is still highly informative. Some other clubs include the Rat and Mouse Club of America which publishes a bi-monthly glossy magazine, the Rat and Mouse Gazette; and the London and Southern Counties Mouse and Rat Club which holds a Rat and Mouse show on the first Saturday of most months at the Fourth Enfield Scout HQ, Gordon Road, Enfield, London (nearest BR Station: Enfield Town).=20 The National Fancy Rat Society Membership Co-ordinator 14 Clayhall House, Somers Close Reigate Surrey RH2 9EB London and Southern Counties Mouse and Rat Club Albert Collins 29 Stortford Road, Hoddesdon Herts. EN11 0AH (for show details; ordinarily you can join the club on the day of a show) The Rat Fan Club 857 Lindo Lane Chico, CA 95973 USA e-mail: ratlady@sierra.net Rat and Mouse Club of America 13075 Springdale Street #302 Westminster CA 92683 USA e-mail: RMCA1@aol.com Recommended Veterinarians (UK) Heron Veterinary Surgery 101 Central Road Mordon, Surrey SM4 5SQ (0181) 640-2064 Mr. M. H. Treherne John Grieves and Associates 89a Cherry Hinton Road Cambridge (01223) 249331 Ms. Jillian Pearson Ms. Gillian Alford 119 University Street, Belfast BT7 (01232) 326406 and 490 Antrim Road, Belfast, N. Ireland (01232) 370397 Also check with the National Fancy Rat Society for a recommended vet near you. Leaflet (C) A. Swierzy & A. Horn 1996 atms2@cam.ac.uk udty075@kcl.ac.uk